A Small Church at the Top of the Hill

Recently, while spending the day with my friend Umakoshi-san, we decided the weather was just too nice not to explore. Umakoshi-san has a wealth of knowledge about the history of Tokyo’s smaller neighborhoods, so I knew I was in for some interesting stories during our outing.

After visiting several shrines and temples, we found ourselves standing in front of an old Orthodox church. At first glance, it looked like any other Orthodox church you might find in other countries—but learning its history is what made the visit memorable.

This was the Holy Resurrection Cathedral in Tokyo, also known as Nikolai-do. Interestingly, it stands at what was once the highest natural point in Tokyo—though you’d never guess that now, as it's surrounded by towering skyscrapers that completely dwarf it. The cathedral was originally completed in 1891, with both its interior and exterior designed in the Byzantine style. Sadly, the original beauty of the church was lost when its belfry collapsed onto the dome and much of the interior was destroyed by fire during the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923.

But what makes this church truly special, in my opinion, is its reconstruction in 1929. Led by Shinichiro Okada, the rebuilding process introduced the innovative use of reinforced concrete. While this wasn’t the first time concrete had been used in Japan, it was one of the first times it was showcased in a way that blended modern construction techniques with traditional Byzantine design. The reconstruction of Nikolai-do helped popularize earthquake-resistant concrete methods, influencing the rise of reinforced concrete architecture throughout Tokyo’s modernization in the 20th century.

So while it may just look like a beautiful little church tucked away in the city, its influence on Tokyo’s architectural history easily rivals the skyscrapers that now surround it.